Comments on: DIY: Changing brake pads & rotors

By: Stocking Stuffer: KTM Radial Roadlok | hothotblogs.info - 3

Stocking Stuffer: KTM Radial Roadlok | hothotblogs.info - 3 — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 10:44:59 +0000

[...] DIY: Changing brake pads & rotorsDIY: Changing brake pads & rotors [...]

By: Stocking Stuffer: KTM Radial Roadlok | hothotblogs.info - 3

Stocking Stuffer: KTM Radial Roadlok | hothotblogs.info - 3 — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 10:44:59 +0000

[...] DIY: Changing brake pads & rotorsDIY: Changing brake pads & rotors [...]

By: Hello world! | Queen Anne Auto Body

Hello world! | Queen Anne Auto Body — Thu, 27 Oct 2011 12:14:29 +0000

[...] DIY: Changing brake pads & rotors All typical disclaimers apply, do at your own risk, blah blah blah… I’m not responsible if you drop the car on your head and kill yourself. Tools/Materials: 18″ breaker bar, 1/2″ drive 1/2″ drive socket wrench 3/8″ drive socket wrench 15mm box wrench 13mm box wrench 21mm socket 13mm socket…… [...]

By: tbadera

tbadera — Sun, 11 Sep 2011 14:55:31 +0000

No, you don’t need it. It’s there to make putting the wheel back on easier.

By: glimx06

glimx06 — Thu, 08 Sep 2011 01:36:11 +0000

Do I really need the T30 set screw? I want to install some front rotors but they don’t have the hole for the set screw,

will be fine only with the 5 wheel bolts?
thanks

By: MJP

MJP — Sun, 14 Aug 2011 14:44:14 +0000

Here are a few torque specs from the Bentley manual:

Front brakes, big bolts holding the carrier: 190 Nm (140 ft-lb)
Front brakes, guide pins: 30 Nm (22 ft-lb)

Rear brakes, big bolts holding the carrier: 90 Nm (66 ft-lb)
Rear brakes, caliper mounting bolts: 35 Nm (26 ft-lb)

By: Adam M.

Adam M. — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 23:09:41 +0000

Yeah, this one definitely helped out for me this weekend. BTW, Metalnerd has a basic thin 15mm wrench for a whole $3.00 (part # MN15BT). I’d also recommend their 14mm triple-square bit as it’s shorter than most (part # MNT10099). The rears are a pain because of the small working space. BTW, thanks to the guy above that mentioned using the lug bar from the trunk — worked perfect! All I had was a 25in breaker bar and that’s way too long.

By: ama269

ama269 — Sun, 08 Aug 2010 20:03:10 +0000

Really awesome tutorial – helped me save about $250 vs. the dealership. Thanks!

A couple of notes for anyone else that may be doing this themselves:

- 14mm triple square socket – not easy to find locally (Autozone/O’Reilly only carries up to 12 mm). DO NOT try to use a star bit/torx. You will strip it. I had to go to the dealership and borrow one (they are nice in Austin)… make sure to order it online before you start the job.

- Instead of using a needle nose pliers to take off the rear caliper bolts counterhold I used one of these (they are used to take the pedals off of a road bike, and are also 15 mm):

http://www.bikesomewhere.com/bikesomewhere.cfm/product/58/308/7037

By: tbadera

tbadera — Mon, 24 May 2010 05:54:01 +0000

You could have a problem with the parking brake. I recall some MkVs having issues with the rear brakes dragging.

By: Britishav8tor

Britishav8tor — Thu, 20 May 2010 16:55:14 +0000

Thanks for the advice I bought a caliper retracting kit online and it was well worth the money. I guess on the 2007 model the splash guard is a little different and the retaining nut for the caliper is normal sized and easy to get a hold of with a regular 15mm wrench. Also for those that don’t have an 18in breaker bar I found that I could slide my 3/8 ratchet into the lug nut breaker bar (that comes with the car) and that works just as as well! (of course there is 500 ways to skin a dead cat … or rabbit;).

One question my drivers side rears were the ones causing the problems they were completely gone the passenger side however still had a lot of pad left on them … this worried me, am I dragging on the drivers side? If so any ideas why or how I could fix it? Thanks.