Volkswagen Rabbit/GTI/Jetta/GLI MkV DIY & FAQ

DIY: Changing brake pads & rotors

March 29th, 2008 Posted in Jetta/GLI, Rabbit/GTI

All typical disclaimers apply, do at your own risk, blah blah blah… I’m not responsible if you drop the car on your head and kill yourself.

Tools/Materials:
18″ breaker bar, 1/2″ drive
1/2″ drive socket wrench
3/8″ drive socket wrench
15mm box wrench
13mm box wrench
21mm socket
13mm socket
7mm allen socket (or 7mm allen key)
14mm triple square socket (German Auto Parts)
large flathead screwdriver
needle nose pliers
T30 torx socket (or T30 torx key)
rear piston tool (borrow one from autozone for free, or buy it here: German Auto Parts)
large clamp
jack
jack stands
tire wrench&key
blue threadlock
antiseize
anti-squeal paste
penetrating grease (pb blaster)
grease (I prefer moly fortified)

Step 1:
Loosen front lug bolts while car is on the ground (just get them started). Jack up the front end of the car and secure on stands. Remove front wheels and set aside.

Step 2:
Spray some penetrating grease on the caliper carrier bolts (there are two per caliper).

Step 3:
Use the flathead screwdriver to remove the anti-vibration clip.

Step 4:
Remove the plastic caps covering the caliper pins. Then remove the pins using the 7mm socket.

Step 5:
(for the front driver’s side only) Unclip the wear sensor.

Step 6:
Using the 21mm socket (and you will likely need the 18″ breaker bar), loosen the caliper carrier bolts.

Step 7:
Slide the caliper off the rotor, and support it so there’s no stress on the brake line (I usually wheel the jack over and use it to hold the brake caliper up while I work).

Step 8:
Remove the old brake pads from the caliper, and caliper carrier.

Step 9:
Before going further, let’s put some anti-squeal paste on the new pads… it needs a few minutes to dry, and since we still have work to do it should be dry by the time we need to install them.

Step 10:
Remove the two caliper carrier bolts (21mm); set them and the caliper carrier asside.

Step 11:
Using the clamp, compress the piston in the caliper.

Step 12:
Using the T30 torx, remove the set screw from the rotor.

Step 13:
Remove the old rotor and set aside.

Step 14:
Notice the rust on the wheel hub? The rotors were pretty stuck to the car. To prevent this in the future, apply some antiseize…

Step 15:
Install the new rotor, with the original T30 set screw.

Step 16:
Re-install the caliper carrier with the two 21mm bolts.

Step 17:
Clean and grease your caliper carrier pins (using moly foritified or other high quality grease).

Step 18:
Install the inboard pad on the caliper.

Step 19:
Install outboard pad on the caliper carrier.

Step 20:
Slide the caliper back onto the caliper carrier. Re-secure with the caliper carrier pins. Be sure to replace the black plastic covers on the caliper carrier pins, and reconnect the wear sensor if your new pads have one.

Step 21:
Re-install the anti-vibration clip.

Step 22:
Put some antiseize on your lugs. And re-install your wheel.

Step 23:
Pump your brakes until they feel firm.

Step 24:
Repeat steps 2-23 for other front wheel.

Step 25:
Take car off jack stands and tighten all lugs to spec.

Rear Brakes

Step 1:
Loosen lugs nuts (just get them started). Make sure the car is in 1st gear (MT ppl) or park (DSG/Auto ppl). Chock your front wheel (put something in front of it so it won’t roll) and release your parking brake. Jack up the rear end of the car and secure on jackstands. Remove wheels and set aside.

Step 2:
Loosen 13mm caliper bolts. The upper one is easier to reach with the box wrench, but the lower one you can fit the socket.

Step 3:
The counterhold for the caliper bolts is a VERY tight fit. Most 15mm box wrenches won’t fit. So for the first few turns I used a pair of needle nose pliers to hole the counterhold nut.

Step 4:
Then use the 15mm wrench with the 13mm wrench to remove the caliper bolts.

Step 5:
Put some anti-squeal paste on the new pads.

Step 6:
Slide the caliper off the carrier. Remove the pads from the carrier. The rear calipers are pretty well supported by the parking brake assembly, so you can let it hang.

Step 7:
Using the 18″ breaker bar and 14mm triple square bit, remove the two caliper carrier bolts.

Step 8:
Remove the caliper carrier.

Step 9:
Remove the T30 set screw.

Step 10:
Remove the old rotor, set aside. Apply antiseize to the hub.

Step 11:
Install the new rotor with the original T30 set screw.

Step 12:
Re-install the caliper carrier with the two 14mm triple square bolts.

Step 13:
Use the rear piston tool to retract the caliper.

Step 14:
Install the new pads on the caliper carrier.

Step 15:
Slide the caliper back onto the carrier.

Step 16:
Apply blue threadlock to the caliper bolts.

Step 17:
Install caliper carrier bolts.

Step 18:
There’s a trick to tightening the bolts (if you don’t have a thin 15mm wrench). As it starts to clamp down, pull the 15mm wrench half way off the bolt. Give the 13mm wrench a couple more turns… then wiggle the 15mm wrench out. Now tighten the 13mm the rest of the way.

Step 19:
Apply antiseize to your lugs and reinstall the wheel.

Step 20:
Pump brakes until firm.

Step 21:
Repeat steps 2-20 on other side.

Step 22:
Take car off jackstands. Tighten all lugs.

Step 23:
Pull and release your parking brake lever 3-4 times to re-adjust the cables. Pump the brake pedal again to be sure its firm.

Now its time to go bed in your new setup! Enjoy!

Disabling the wear sensor (ghetto way)

This is the ghetto, cheapass method… but it gets the job done. Before finishing reassembly on the front driver’s side… ball up a piece of aluminum foil and push it into the OEM connector. Push it far enough back to make contact with the two pins inside, then wrap with electrical tape to secure. Cheap, dirty, but hey…. it works

Disabling the wear sensor (vag-com way)

Open VAG-COM, click “Select”

Click “17 – Instruments”

Click “Coding”

Look at the 3rd and 4th digits from the left (in my case “07″)

Subtract one from that number

Click “Do It”, “Close Controller, Go Back”, “Go Back”, “Exit”

Done and done

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