Volkswagen Rabbit/GTI/Jetta/GLI MkV DIY & FAQ

DIY: $25 PCV fix

(pictures courtesy of OOOO-A3)

Typical disclaimer… do at your own risk… blah blah
blah…

Soooo…. I think many of you are now familiar with the
PCV valve on the 2.0T engine. Its the second weak spot (second to the DV)
on these engines. The failure seems more common on chipped (stage2) cars,
but even stock cars have had these valves fail. When the valve fails,
you’ll notice your max boost PSI slowly declining (over a cpl days, weeks,
it will get worse) and eventually you see signs of oil being blown out the
oil fill cap. This is because the stock PCV valve is failing under boost,
and allowing pressurized intake air back into the valve cover/crankcase.

So people have been throwing around different options… from
capping it off, to running secondary PCVs, to catch-cans… But I wanted
to fix the problem, while retaining stock-like PCV function. With this
fix, the PCV valve will still see vac from the intake… but will no
longer see boost… problem solved!

The main part of the solution
is an inline check-valve. Check-valves are designed to allow one-way flow.
The valve used in the fix can be found here: (EDIT: McMaster changed their
site, so, go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and enter 1424T37 in the search
on the left side). I chose this particular valve for a number of reasons:
1) similar ID to the stock fittings 2) high back-pressure resistance
(125psi) 3) wide temperature range (-40F – 200F) 4) sping loaded for quick
action 5) 1psi “cracking pressure” so the engine vac will easily pop it
back open 6) and a soft seat for a “bubble-tight” seal

Here’s the
valve:

You will also need:
2 approx 1″ segments of 3/4″ or
5/8″ OD rubber heater hose
4 hose clamps (that will fit over the heater
hose)

First step is to remove the “accordian tube” seen
here:

This can be removed by pressing on the sides of the
connectors, then pulling them loose.

Second, we need to cut a
small section from the tube to accomodate the new valve. You’re going to
want to cut more towards the manifold end, so that your engine cover will
still fit. See here:


The part number for this hose is: 06f103221f… for those
who don’t want to cut up their only tube.

Next, you want to
screw the check-valve into the pieces of rubber heater hose. Pay attention
to the “black end” of the check-valve… you will want this FACING THE PCV
valve once installed on the car.

Now, slip the pieces of accordian hose into the rubber
hoses you just attached to the check-valve, like so:

Once you have everthing fit together… use the four hose
clamps to ensure the connections are tight… two clamps per 1″ rubber
hose. (no pic available)

Finally, reinstall the new assembly on
the car and enjoy!

please note, while no hose clamps appear in this picture
(since its not my pic)… I do recommend putting clamps on to ensure
things stay together

I’ve been running this setup on my own car
for months without a problem Love seeing that needle hit 21-22psi

UPDATE

As you can see in the above
image (image no longer available), there are TWO check-valves in the
original PCV assembly. Apparently both are prone to failure. One failure
will cause boost loss, the other will not… but both cause excess
crankcase pressure (and as a result will blow oil out the oil fill cap).
After applying my fix, I still found a small amount of oil being blown out
the oil cap… but since I no longer had boost loss, and a million things
to do, I didn’t bother with it. The new OEM “G” version of the PCV valve
only has ONE check-valve in it. The one check-valve is a beefier valve to
replace the one between the intake and valvecover. The second check-valve
(between the turbo and valvecover) was moved to the hose between the turbo
and valvecover.

So, if you have applied my fix, and you’re
still experiencing oil being blown out the oil fill cap… you should get
the updated hose pictured here:

I have not tested this myself, I plan to as soon as I can
get the part. The part number is: 06F 103 215A

Thanks goes to
4string for the pic and info on this hose
w/check-valve

25k+ on my original here:

• DIY: Manual transmission fluid change Tools/Items needed:  Jack 2x Jack stands Wheel chocks 2.3L of gear oil (I used Motul...
• DIY: oil change (without the OEM drain tool) Tools and Supplies: OEM oil filter (top in picture) p/n 06D 115 562 Quality oil...
• DIY: Rear wiper delete plug DIY rear wiper delete Tools needed: 3/8 socket wrench 2” extension (optional) 10mm socket 13mm...
• DIY: changing fuel filter WARNING: Fuel system is under pressure.  It is ALWAYS a good idea to use goggles...
• DIY: High pressure fuel pump removal/installation & cam/follower inspection **** Disclaimer/Warning: I'm not responsible for any damage you do to your car following this...

• Safe Power Tool Care Most professional style power tools are really rough and tough. We can use them hard,...
• How to Check Car Oil [/caption] Owning a car is a very good investment, but the responsibility of taking care...
• Brass Health and Beauty Are you aware of the fact that the health and beauty of your brass instruments...