DIY: brake fluid bleed / change
April 16th, 2008 Posted in Jetta/GLI, Rabbit/GTIBrake fluid is caustic and generally hazardous to your health. Wear rubber/vinyl/synthetic gloves that are chemical resistant while working with brake fluid. See MSDS here
Tools and Supplies:
Motive Pressue Bleeder (optional, if you don’t have this you will need a friend to pump the pedals for you - GermanAutoParts)
1.5L of suitable brake fluid (I used Motul DOT 5.1 – BeyondBikes)
Chemical resistant gloves
Rags or paper towels
Plastic tube
Collection container (empty fluid bottle works well)
11mm flare-nut wrench (box or open end wrench can be used instead, but becareful not to strip the nuts)
needle-nose vice grips
Jack
Jackstands
Wheel chocks
Screwdriver (to remove intake pieces if necessary)
Step 1: Chock rear wheels. Loosen front lug bolts (just get them started).
Step 2: Jack up front end, secure on jackstands.
Step 3: Remove front wheels and set aside.
Step 4: Remove engine cover / intake.
Step 5: If you’re using a Motive Pressure Bleeder, pour the new brake fluid into the container now. Close the lid tight when you’re done. PLEASE NOTE: If you’re NOT using a pressure bleeder, you will need to keep an eye on the fluid level in the resevoir… topping it off with fresh fluid as needed. DO NOT let the fluid level go below the “MIN” line!
Step 6: If you’re using a Motive Pressure Bleeder… With a rag handy, open the lid on the brake fluid resevoir. Wipe fluid off the level sensor and tuck to the side. If you’re not using the bleeder, leave the cap on until you need to top off the fluid.
Step 7: If you’re using a Motive Pressure Bleeder… screw it onto the resevoir now. Once attached tight, pump the bleeder up to at least 20psi.
Step 8: For manual transmission owners… locate the clutch bleed nipple. Remove the rubber cover and attach plastic hose. Run hose into collection bottle.
Step 9: For manual transmission owners… The clutch bleeder is a smaller size than the brake bleeders (I believe its 9mm). Since I didn’t have a 9mm wrench handy, I used my needle-nose vice grips.
a. If you’re using a pressure bleeder… Open up the bleed nipple by twisting counter-clockwise; fluid will begin flowing through the plastic tube. Allow it to drain for 30-45 seconds. Be sure the fluid coming out is free of air bubbles and appears clean… then close the bleed nipple by twisting clockwise.
b. If you’re doing it the old fashioned way… Make sure the fluid resevoir is at the “MAX” line. Have your friend push the clutch pedal down and hold it. Open up the bleed nipple by twisting counter-clockwise; fluid will begin flowing through the plastic tube. As the flow slows down, close the nipple by twisting clockwise. Check the brake fluid level in the resevoir again, and then have your friend release the clutch pedal. Repeat this process until the fluid draining is clean and free of air bubbles.
Step 10: Pinch the plastic tube near the bleed nipple, and remove. Wipe the area clean with a rag. Replace rubber nipple cover.
Step 11: Starting with the front driver’s side wheel… locate the bleed nipple and remove the rubber cap. Set cap aside for later. Attach plastic hose and run hose into collection container.
Step 12:
a. If you’re using a pressure bleeder… Be sure you have at least 20psi on the bleeder. Use the 11mm wrench to open the bleed nipple; fluid will begin to flow down the plastic hose. Allow to drain for about a minute (or until fluid appears clean and air bubble free). Check that fluid is clean and bubble free, then tighten the bleed nipple.
b. If you’re doing it the old fashioned way… Make sure the fluid resevoir is above the “MIN” line. have your friend pump the brake pedal 3-4 times then hold it. Use the 11mm wrench to open the bleed nipple; fluid will begin to flow down the plastic hose. As the flow slows, close the bleed nipple. Double check that resevoir is still above “MIN” line, then have your friend release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until the fluid appears clean and air bubble free.
Step 13: Pinch the plastic tube near the bleed nipple, and remove. Wipe the area clean with a rag. Replace rubber nipple cover.
Step 14: Repeat steps 11-13 for the front passenger side wheel.
Step 15: Replace wheels, tighten lug bolts, and lower the front end off the jackstands.
Step 16: Move wheel chocks to front wheels, loosen rear wheel lugs (just get them started), jack up and secure rear end on jackstands.
Step 17: Remove rear wheels, set aside.
Step 18: Locate the bleed nipple on the driver’s side rear wheel. Remove the rubber cover.
Step 19: Attach plastic hose to the bleeder, and run hose into collection bottle.
Step 20:
a. If you’re using a pressure bleeder… Be sure you have at least 20psi on the bleeder. Use the 11mm wrench to open the bleed nipple; fluid will begin to flow down the plastic hose. Allow to drain for about a minute (or until fluid appears clean and air bubble free). Check that fluid is clean and bubble free, then tighten the bleed nipple.
b. If you’re doing it the old fashioned way… Make sure the fluid resevoir is above the “MIN” line. have your friend pump the brake pedal 3-4 times then hold it. Use the 11mm wrench to open the bleed nipple; fluid will begin to flow down the plastic hose. As the flow slows, close the bleed nipple. Double check that resevoir is still above “MIN” line, then have your friend release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until the fluid appears clean and air bubble free.
Step 21: Repeat steps 18-20 on rear passenger side.
Step 22: Replace rear wheels, tighten lug bolts, lower off jackstands. Remove chocks from front wheels.
Step 23: If you’re using a pressure bleeder… unscrew the top of the bleeder (where the pump is) to release left over pressure. With a rag handy, unscrew the bleeder from the brake resevoir. There is usually some excess fluid when using a power bleeder…. you can suck it out with a vac pump (or turkey baster), or just suck it up with a rag. Replace resevoir cap and wipe up any excess brake fluid with a rag. Pump the brake and clutch pedals a couple times. Make sure the fluid level is between “MAX” and “MIN” lines.
Step 24: If you’re doing it the old fashioned way… Pump the brake and clutch pedals a couple times. Check your brake fluid level, make sure its between “MAX” and “MIN” lines.
Step 25: Re-install intake / engine cover.
Step 26: Take your car for a drive and enjoy.
Related Posts
- DIY: High pressure fuel pump removal/installation & cam/follower inspection **** Disclaimer/Warning: I'm not responsible for any damage you do to your car following this...
- DIY: APR downpipe install Tools and supplies: PB Blaster (or other penetrating grease) Oxygen sensor wrench 1/2" drive socket...
- DIY: Plasti-Dip Tiguan Front Chrome Grill Periwinkles and I decided to pull apart the grill on the Tig, and Plasti-Dip the...
- DIY: Manual transmission fluid change Tools/Items needed: Jack 2x Jack stands Wheel chocks 2.3L of gear oil (I used Motul...
- DIY: Changing brake pads & rotors All typical disclaimers apply, do at your own risk, blah blah blah... I'm not responsible...
- 7 steps to getting out of debt. People accumulate debt for a number of reasons. Some are unavoidable such as a health...
- How to Remove Sliding Shower Doors If you are thinking about removing sliding shower doors for your next do-it-yourself project, you...
- Simple Air Conditioning Cleaning Keeping your air conditioner clean is the best way to make sure it runs at...
















































You must be logged in to post a comment.